Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always characterized its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these tales and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
